Autumn Winter Tailoring Tips
Ian Fielding-Calcutt, the founder of tailors Fielding & Nicholson has put together tips for finding the perfect autumn / winter suit. Including mixing textures, channeling the Duke of Windsor (formerly King Edward VIII) and how to get socks right.
#1 - Autumn is a good season for paired down tailoring
You can achieve this by wearing separates rather than a suit. Pair tweed or corduroy trousers with a crisp white shirt and a knit sweater for a relaxed yet sophisticated look. For the right setting, a family get together or a lunch date, tailored trousers and a good quality knit can eliminate the need to wear a suit.
#2 - Mix texture
Add a touch of texture to your outfit by mixing and matching wool blazers with chinos in earthy tones like olive, navy, or camel for a laid-back yet polished look. Corduroy is also great. It’s timelessly stylish and looks good in a range of colours, but you can’t go wrong with navy.
Fielding & Nicholson light rust linen jacket, from £750 and trousers from £300, shirt from £195, www.fieldingandnicholson.com
#3 - Embrace the season
Elevate your style with two-piece and three-piece suits in warm, autumnal fabrics such as wool flannel, tweed, or herringbone for a timeless and seasonally-appropriate look.
#4 - Wrapping up
Not all coats are suitable to be worn with a suit. My rule here is to stick to the look championed by stylish men in the 1940s; King Edward VIII, or Hollywood stars like Cary Grant. Go for trench coats, Crombie’s, Macs or Chesterfields – the more classic the better. Avoid peacoats or double breasted coats in general, and certainly avoid jackets or anything padded.
#5 - Don’t wheel out the summer suit
As tempting as it may be to repurpose a summer suit, we should always avoid lightweight and summery fabrics such as linen or seersucker in autumn. They will not provide enough insulation against the cold weather, and they look out of place in an autumn setting.
Fielding & Nicholson checked peacoat, from £1500, chinos from £300, shirt from £300 www.fieldingandnicholson.com
#6 - The autumn colour palette
Steer clear of overly vibrant or summery colours in your suit choices. Opt for deep, rich hues like burgundy, forest green, or charcoal grey that are more in tune with the season.
#7 - Lessons in layering
Of course it’s cold outside in autumn, but this is often mixed with central heating in offices, shops and other public buildings. Consider layering to help to keep cool when you know you may spend a day being inside and outside. A cashmere sweater is super soft and breathable.
#8 - Socks
If you wanted to introduce a splash of colour or print, then this can be done with socks. The ankle could provide the opportunity for bolder colours, such as red or green, or paisley prints.
Fielding & Nicholson tailored coat, from £1500, and trousers from £300 www.fieldingandnicholson.com
#9 - It’s all in the lining
Similarly, another opportunity to be bolder is provided by your suit lining, ideally in silk. Speak to your tailor to customise something in a geometric design, stripes, tile prints, or even an illustrative or artwork inspired print.
#10 - Accessorize for the season
Invest in a cashmere or Merino scarf in a good tone, go for navy, grey, camel, but avoid anything patterned or printed. You can also wear gloves, but rather than anything made of wool, I’d recommend lined gloves in vintage leather, faux leather or suede. The best colours to choose here would be darker hues (you don’t want people to see your gloves before they see the rest of you!) Black is great, also charcoal or deep navy.
Fielding & Nicholson have studios in London, Cheshire and Manchester
T: 020 7167 3490
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