WORDS: Janet McMeekin

After you’ve visited the magical island of Sri Lanka once, I can guarantee that you’ll want to return again…and again.

With palm-fringed, white sandy beaches, abundant jungles teeming with wildlife, and a plethora of historic temples and World Heritage Sites, this exceptionally diverse country certainly packs a punch.

My first night was spent at Uga Ulagalla, an extremely welcoming and charming traditional resort, located within 58 acres of verdant grounds surrounding a beautifully-restored manor house, built back in 1916. Tearing myself away from my elegant, secluded villa (complete with private pool), early the next morning I hopped (albeit slightly bleary-eyed) into our air-conditioned minibus, eagerly anticipating revisiting one of Sri Lanka’s most popular attractions.

When I last ventured to this relatively small (think the size of Ireland), yet totally beguiling island nearly 30 years ago, one of my fondest memories was exploring Sigiriya; a towering rock formation that was well worth the 1,200-step clamber.

Topped by the remains of an ancient fortress, Sigiriya dates back to the reign of King Kasyapa (477-495 AD), who chose this site for his impressive capital. 

Following our 90-minute drive, I meandered through the peaceful gardens before beginning the ascent to the magnificent summit-top ruins. Starting the monolith rock climb at 6am, to beat both the heat and the crowds, was one of many top insider tips from our conscientious, local guide, Kanchana, hand-picked for our show-stopper Sri Lankan adventure by the experienced team at Kuoni.

Drinking in the panoramic views of the lush jungle and far-reaching mountainous backdrop to the resounding strains of the Sri Lankan National Anthem was an incredible start to an action-packed week! 

When I returned to the boutique resort it was time to get hands-on during a cookery workshop when I helped the chef pick and prepare ingredients for our lunch in Ulagalla’s solar-powered, organic farm and garden.

As this visit to Sri Lanka coincided with Vesak – one of the most important festivals in the Buddhist calendar – it seemed particularly appropriate that my next port of call was Anuradhapura – just a 30-minute drive from Ulagalla.

In this ancient city, Buddhist pilgrims and tourists flock reverently to pay homage at shrines and relics, as well as the sacred Jaya Siri Maha Bodhi tree, planted in 245BC from a cutting of the Bo tree, under which it is said the Buddha attained enlightenment.

At Uga’s resorts, sustainability and protecting wildlife is of utmost importance, and the next day began with an insightful and moving briefing at Ulagalla’s purpose-built Elephant Research Centre. 

Dedicated and inspiring head naturalist Katharina Raaben’s passion for her vital work shone through, as she explained how Uga is helping to conserve and protect the elephant population in Sri Lanka, while also taking an active role in resolving the human/elephant conflict in the area. 

Little did I realise that, coincidentally, just hours later, tears (of joy!) would be rolling down my cheeks after witnessing the unforgettable sight of four trumpeting elephants playing gleefully in the nearby Nachchaduwa reservoir, a mere ten-minute drive from Ulagalla.

The next day, I paddled through pretty pink and white lotus flowers and lilies, watching egrets and herons swoop effortlessly in and out of the water, during a peaceful kayak safari.

IMAGES: Uga Escapes

That evening, feeling energised by the kayak trip and cycle ride around Ulagalla, I travelled back in time to savour a traditional Kamatha gourmet meal. 

This lovingly-cooked feast, comprising 23 mouth-watering courses, was served in the atmospheric setting of a traditional clay house (complete with thatched roof), located on the edge of a working rice paddy field. Magical! 

After a delicious farewell breakfast in Ulagalla’s superb Liya Wela Restaurant, four hours later I arrived in the island’s cosmopolitan, vibrant capital, Colombo. Within minutes, I stepped out of Uga Residence – a 180-year-old mansion house, converted into an eight-suite boutique hotel in the heart of the city – into buzzy, lantern-lined streets, where the Vesak festival was already in full swing. 

It was an incredible privilege, and humbling, to be part of this colourful celebration, witnessing the procession alongside Sri Lankans dressed in traditional costumes, performing centuries-old dances with finesse, agility and pride.

Bidding farewell to this oasis in the city, the next morning it was time to head south and, once more, become fully immersed in the natural world.

Arriving at Uga’s all-inclusive Chena Huts, I could totally understand why I’d been warmly greeted with the words ‘Paradise is here’. The resort nestles deep within the jungle, just a ten-minute drive miles from Yala National Park, an almost 100,000-hectare nature reserve.

 Chena Huts is a truly idyllic location, right on the shores of the Indian Ocean, bordered on one side by tropical jungle, and on the other by a saline lake, where pretty painted storks wade gracefully in the shallows. After a very hospitable welcome from the cheery Chena Huts team, I took a gentle stroll to my thatched-roof cabin, one of 18 discreetly tucked away within seven acres of lush, tropical grounds.

 All the cosseting, secluded cabins have their own private deck and pool, the most comfortable beds, free-standing baths, plus indoor and outdoor showers. The sophisticated interiors, featuring tactile, solid wooden furniture, blend seamlessly, and very sympathetically, with the natural, jungle surroundings.

Having been introduced to Janith Jayarathna, one of the experienced and extremely enthusiastic rangers at Chena Huts, I couldn’t wait to leap into the customised jeep for a wildlife safari at Yala – Sri Lanka’s most famous national park.

IMAGES: Uga Escapes

Within minutes of arriving, we’d spotted lolloping water buffalo grazing languidly with their young, watchful crocodiles, herds of Bambi-like spotted deer, cheeky grey langur monkeys, and the most photogenic Little Green Bee Eater birds with bright blue and green plumage hovering in the untamed, natural surroundings.

As we continued our safari, elephants passed nonchalantly by, virtually within touching distance. For me, the pièce de résistance had to be spotting a critically endangered sloth bear; mind you catching a fleeting glimpse of a leopard, came a close second.

The last time I reluctantly left Sri Lanka, this tear-drop gem with its incredibly endearing, friendly islanders stole a little piece of my heart. 

It’s safe to say, that when our Sri Lankan Airlines flight took off, a similar experience occurred this time. So much so, that I have already started planning my next trip to this fascinating island! 

ugaescapes.comapes.com

kuoni.co.uk

Instagram @janetmcmeekinwriter

IMAGES: Uga Escapes

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